Exploring Iowa’s Oldest State Park: A New Adventure at Dundee’s Backbone

There is something different about returning to a place you already love. It's less repetition and more, "wow, I missed that last time!"

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On my family's recent visit to Backbone State Park, we set out to explore both familiar highlights and new corners we had not ventured too. The day was a real only in Iowa adventure with hiking, history, streams, and spelunking. This place can definitely give you a deeper appreciation for Iowa’s natural wonder and it's first state park.

Hiking the Devil’s Backbone

I mean you have to start here, right? It is the park’s most iconic feature, the Devil’s Backbone formation. This narrow, elevated ridge defines the park’s landscape and gives Backbone its name.

The hike immediately reminded us why this trail is so well known. The elevation shifts, rocky footing, and exposed views create a sense of movement and scale that feels unusual for this section of eastern Iowa.

On our previous trip, I spotted some five-lined skinks sunning themselves on limbs and rocks. This time, they were nowhere to be found, but the trail itself was just as beautiful as ever. Besides, this time I was treated to some new goslings.

The CCC Museum

After finishing the ridge hike, we made our way to the Backbone State Park CCC Museum near the west gate. We had never explored it before, and learning about a park we like to visit is never a bad idea.

The museum offers a focused look at the work of the Civilian Conservation Corps during the Great Depression. Between 1933 and 1941, CCC crews constructed many of the stone buildings, lateens, and park structures still standing and used today.

Walking through the exhibits gives a real sense of the labor and purpose behind the park’s early development and the great depression. It is not just history on display, it is the foundation of what the park still is as Iowa's oldest.

Fenchel Creek, Trout, and Balance Rock

From there, we shifted toward the water systems that run through the park, starting with Fenchel Creek. I must say, give me a rod and I could spend all day here, heck maybe even an innertube and a good coat of sunblock.

Either way, the creek was crystal clear and full of life. Trout were visible throughout the clear, cool water as it moved steadily through shaded forest sections.

It was one of the most active natural waterways we have seen in the park.

There's even a handicap accessible area for the stream; with close parking and a cemented walkway. It's ideal for anyone that wants to do some trout fishing.

Across the creek is Balance Rock, a natural formation that stands out because of its unusual positioning. It is one of those features you might walk past if you are not looking closely, but once you notice it, it is hard to forget.

Near the trout stream is the location of the old fish hatchery area. While it's much quieter now, it remains an interesting reminder of how the park once managed and supported fish populations across its waters.

The Cave Exploration

One of the most memorable parts of the day came when my son and I explored the park’s cave. Now there are a few crevices and small spaces to explore, but this is THE cave, and it's quite deep honestly.

We were able to go far enough inside to see bats resting in the darkness and a variety of unique rock formations. Water dripped steadily from the ceiling, and the walls were coated with flowstone. Inside, we also found small stalagmite formations that had built up over time.

We could have but didn't push deeper into the cave. My phone battery was already down to 7% from taking photos throughout the day, and I was not confident my flashlight would last much longer. Sometimes knowing when to turn back is part of the experience, too.

Richmond Springs

We ended our journey at Richmond Springs, one of the most important natural water sources in the park. At first we weren't sure if it was there on the visit; it seems a storm has blown over a tree onto the sign that once explained the feature.

Th sign did mention that the spring releases more than 2,000 gallons of water per minute, feeding Fenchel Creek and eventually flowing into the Maquoketa River and Backbone Lake.

Standing there, watching the constant flow of clear, cold water, it is easy to understand how deeply this system shapes everything around it.

Why Keep Coming Back?

Because, bluntly, Iowa is NOT a flyover state, and there's so much to see, explore, and do. Besides, Backbone State Park is not a place you ever fully finish with. It's a place that keeps revealing itself in layers and giving you new opportunities for incredible experiences and time with family.

Between the geology, the CCC history, the water systems, and the trails, there is always something new to notice. Even familiar paths feel different depending on where you start, what season it is, and how closely you look. Speaking of which, check out my past adventure at Backbone State Park and see those lizards I mentioned.